Each side of each mounting point will have a silver washer against the frame and 2 grade 8 washers outside of them. The larger silver ones will stiffen the sheet metal in that area of the frame and the grade 8 washers provide a harder metal that is now wider where force is transferred from the LCA mounting bolts to the frame.
It's not unusual at all to find some of the original mounting bolt holes in the frame have become slightly oblong over the cars life. This is due to bumping parking blocks, hitting pot holes and other things that put a lot of force on the edge of the frame sheet metal. Unless the holes are really oblong it's not a concern and installing the reinforcement washer kit will cure the problem
To line the washers up for welding you'll use the threaded rod with nuts tool unless any of the original frame holes are really oblong in which case you'd use the original lower control arms and bolts to be sure everything is lined up properly. The front of the engine cross member gets the silver washers with one cut side up against the frame and 2 gold washers on top of it. Put the washer up against the frame and note how you'll want to bend the washer to get it to sit nice against the frame for welding. Using a hammer & vice gently tap the washer to bend it the way you want & test fit again.
Once you've got the washer bent the way you want install the threaded rod tool into the frame with 2 nuts inside the frame. Measure the control arm and use the nuts to spread the frame a little wider than control arms. The rear side of the engine cross member gets the silver washers with 2 cut sides against the frame. The 2 cut sides of the silver washer are slightly different so you can flip the washers either way to get the best fit for your particular frame. You can bend the silver washers slightly if you want then put 2 gold washers on top and then put nut on threaded rod.
There shouldn't be any reason to bend gold washers.The rear LCA mounts are simple compared to the cross member ones. All washers are full size with no cuts and no bends. Rear LCA mounts get large silver uncut washers against frame with 2 gold washers on each one then install bolts and nuts.
Once you've got a mounting point ready with silver washers against frame and two gold ones on top of each silver one, snug the outer nuts and weld the washers in place. Let cool and remove threaded rod tool and go to next mounting point and repeat. Do not use the gold bolts or top lock nuts during welding.
NOTE: Due to differences in the length of the threaded section of the gold grade 8 bolts from different manufacturers some LCA kits will come with 18 gold washers and some with 24. If your kit has 24 gold washers you only need to weld a large silver one and two gold ones at each point. When doing final assembly use one loose gold washer under the bolt head and one under the top lock nut. Check clearance of the center link through the travel of the steering to be sure there's clearance. You can use both loose washers under the nut on the back side of the forward mounts for a little extra clearance to the center link.
When you install the lower control arms you may find you need to slightly file some of the holes in the washers/frame so the bolt slides through due to slight warping from the heat while welding. Only file just enough to gently tap bolts into place. Being a tight fit is a good thing here. If you find you need to spread the frame slightly to install the arms use the threaded rod tool with nuts inside the frame to spread the frame a bit.
Included with the new LCA bolts are top lock nuts which have a deformed thread and I only consider them single use fasteners. Do not use the top lock nuts until final assembly and torque to factory specs 70 lb.ft.. Use the regular nuts that come on the threaded rod tool with the gold bolts for fitment and mock up of suspension parts.